Because of my impending departure from Buenos Aires, I have made it my goal to do as much as I possibly can before I leave. After looking at countless websites with lists of “must-see” sights, and leafing through numerous guidebooks, I compiled my own list of things to do and to see at some point during my last two weeks in Argentina. After completing that list, I decided that I should share some of the integral parts of a visit to the city that has been my home for the past three months.
1. Las Ferías
A large chunk of the lists in the various guidebooks consisted of ferías (fairs) around the city. Throughout my explorations of these never-ending fairs, I have found that there are two types. Type 1 consists of tourist fairs. They are jam-packed with rows of mate gourds and other Argentine paraphernalia (eg: shot glasses and key chains), frantic vendors trying to convince you that their posters are the best, and that their empanadas are the most delicious. While walking through these fairs, Spanish is rarely heard, and an abundance of other languages are constantly flying by. However overwhelming these fairs can be, I enjoy pushing through the crowds and admiring (and buying) all that is for sale. Type 2, however, are much less touristy. These fairs seems to exist more for the locals, and look more like the whole neighborhood decided to host a conjoined garage sale. Every weekend. You can find anything from old books to boots to children’s clothing to jewelry to old fashioned telephones to collectable coins to old furnitures. I always find these to be slightly humorous, but nonetheless worthwhile.
Another aspect of these fairs (specifically in Type 2) that I have found to be quite charming are the smatterings of book stands located at random spots around the city. These stands sell everything from old classics to textbooks to self help books to coloring books. I always feel compelled to purchase a Spanish translation of a Stephen King book before I convince myself that it would be completely unnecessary (considering I’ve never actually read a Stephen King book in English).
2. Parrilla Tradicional
Argentina is known for its meat. Everytime that I mention that I am here, I am asked if I am eating steak on a regular basis. While I have not made it a habit to have meat all the time, nor do I consider myself a learned connoisseur of the cuisine, I can definitely confirm the rumors of the high quality of meat (and I now understand why Argentines refuse to eat meat unless they prepare it themselves.) In my experiences, there are two ways to eat meat in a restaurant. One way is to go to any relatively nice restaurant, which typically caters to tourists and everyone can order their individual plate. Another way is to go to a place with the world parilla (barbeque) posted out front. One can usually expect an empanada, followed by a small grill being brought to the table stocked with a variety of different types of meat. Though at times you cannot be completely sure as to which type of meat you are consuming, everything is generally pretty delicious.
3. Cafe con leche y tres medialunas
Cafe con leche (coffee with milk) and tres medialunas (three mini-croissants) are a very typical Argentine breakfast. The medialunas are much sweeter than your normal croissants, and incredibly delicious. Every cafe and coffee shop advertises their special deal for the duo, and it is quite common to see a spread of people enjoying the combo while reading their newspapers. It is also very commonplace to see the same occurrence at around 5 pm, to make up for their ridiculous late dining hour (see #7).
4. Empanadas
Empanadas are a given for this country. They’re everywhere. At around noon, the promotions advertising for cafe con leche y tres medialunas change to promoting two empanadas of your choice, accompanied by either a soda or a beer. Typical empanada fillings consist of meat, chicken, ham and cheese, or vegetables; but on occasion you can find caprese, napolitan, or other creative mixings inside them. At around one most schools break for lunch, and I always find hordes of teenagers wandering the streets, or sitting in front of various stores eating the aforementioned empanadas.
5. Take a Salsa Class
A visit to a Latin American country is not complete without some form of a exposure to Latin Dance. Though Argentina is known for its Tango (see #6), there are also a fair amount of Salsa dancers, and Salseras, or bars established specifically for Salsa. I, along with two of my roommates (one of whom dances Salsa at home and had been itching to do so here for the past couple of months), decided to go to one of these Salseras to attend a Salsa class. Though the class was said to be a beginner’s class, I can assure you that my roommate and I were the two people in the room who had never done it before. I can also assure you that I will never win any awards for my Salsa Dancing abilities. I did, however, enjoy the experience and I am kind of hoping Oberlin will decide to offer a Salsa class in the coming years.
6. Go to a Milonga
Argentina is famous for its tango. And to have an authentic, Argentine Tango experience, a Milonga is the place to go. First of all, I would like to point out that Tango is an extremely important aspect of the culture. The way that I grew up listening to the Beatles, and subsequently knowing every word to every song, coincides with the way in which Argentines grow up knowing every word to every Tango song. A Milonga (at least the one that I visited) has a small kitchen and bar, and lots of small tables surrounding a dance floor. It is populated by a diverse group of people--ranging from retired married couples to young tango enthusiasts. No matter the age, everyone was just as actively enjoying the familiar music. Though I felt a bit out of place, I definitely enjoyed the experience.
7. Eat dinner at 11pm (or later).
For some reason, people in Argentina never eat dinner before 9:30, but even more frequently not before 11. This is one practice that most westerners have a very difficult time adjusting to. Argentines frequently make fun of the fact that we eat ridiculously early. I normally eat around 8:30 because Susana, the woman with whom I live, thinks that I, as a North American, am unable to eat later than that. So even though I have not made it a habit to have dinner past 11 pm, I have done it a couple of times. It still surprises me when I walk past a restaurant at midnight and it’s packed with the nightly dinner rush.
8. Stay out until 6 am
With the tendency to have dinner later, comes the tendency to stay out later in general. Argentines like to stay out late (or early, depending on how you look at it). People will have dinner, then spend some time at a bar, and then go to a club. In fact, most clubs don’t even open until at least 1 am. While I have stayed out until the sun was almost out once or twice, it is definitely not something I plan to bring back to the states (don’t worry, mom and dad). In addition to the party-late mindset, Argentine children do not have what we would consider a normal bed time. I’ve seen kids in ice cream shops with their parents at one in the morning; I’ve witnessed kids playing in the park located in a plaza known for its nightlife surrounded by drunken bar patrons. It begs the question of whether or not babysitters exist in this country--but it once again shows the many cultural differences that exist.
9. Put Dulce de Leche on everything.
Dulce de leche is in everything in Argentina. There’s dulce de leche ice cream; pancakes are served with it heaped on top; it is served with toast (alongside various types of jam); it’s a staple ingredient of an ice cream sundae; at least a half of an aisle in every grocery store is dedicated to the various available brands; it is the filling for many pastries; and it is found in most alfajores (see #10). Now, don’t get me wrong, I think dulce de leche is as delicious as the next person, but there has to be a limit. The expression “I put ketchup on my ketchup” perfectly describes this country's addiction to the delicious spread. Not only is it put on everything, but people are often quite generous regarding the amount used. I don’t think you walk more than a couple of blocks without seeing an ad for some line of it, nor can you watch television without seeing an ad depicting the utter delight of some adorable Argentine child after his mom serves him his toast with mountains of dulce de leche on top. Nonetheless, dulce de leche is definitely one aspect of this country that I will miss.
10. Try as many brands of alfajores as possible.
Considering more than half of this post has revolved around food, I think by now (if you’re still reading this), you have probably picked up on how delicious it all tends to be. My favorite Argentine food, by far, are alfajores, which seem to be the national dessert of choice. Typically, they are made with two pieces of dough sandwiching a layer of dulce de leche, and then dipped in chocolate. My mom likens them to high class ding dongs. Though I prefer the classic alfajor, you can find them made with rice cakes, or with jam instead of dulce de leche, or made entirely with chocolate, or with no chocolate at all. In addition to the variety in flavors, there are an unimaginable amount of alfajor brands. For example, I’ve seen Oreo brand alfajores, Nestle has one, and every chocolate company in Argentina has their own type (if not many types) of alfajores. You can find them in all of the kiosks that line the streets of the city, you can get them at most coffee shops, and almost all bakeries (which are as common as Starbuck’s is in the states) make their own gourmet version of an alfajor. And for those of you who are slightly intrigued by my not-so-eloquent description of the delicacy, I will be bringing home a box so that as many people as possible can bear witness to the amazingness that is an alfajor.
11. Drink Yerba Mate
Yerba Mate, in my opinion, should replace the image of the sun placed in the center of the Argentine flag. It’s everywhere. According to Wikipedia (which is clearly a very reliable source of information), “Mate is present in 95% of households and 79% of the population drinks the beverage.” Though you can find mate cocido (toasted mate) in tea bags, it is generally served loosely. One will put the mate leaves in a traditional mate gourd (see picture below). Some will add sugar, or some other form of sweetener, and others will drink it straight. Then, hot water (but not boiling, as to not burn the tea) is poured in. One drinks the mate through a special straw that has a special filter at one end of it. These straws are typically made out of some form of metal, and often have some form of decoration. When one person finishes the water, the gourd is passed to the next person. In my opinion, mate tastes like green tea, but with a slightly stronger flavor. Not a day has passed where I haven’t seen someone on the street with a thermos tucked under their arm and a mate gourd in their hand.
Though I can hardly believe my time in Argentina, and my gap year as a whole, is coming to an end, I am definitely looking forward to spending some time at home. The past year has been absolutely incredible. I have had the opportunity to immerse myself in foreign cultures, I have learned to be significantly more independent, and I have had experiences that I wouldn’t trade for anything. And I can speak Spanish (with a ton of mistakes).
PS: Tell everyone you know to take a gap year. It’s a good decision, I promise.
1. Las Ferías
A large chunk of the lists in the various guidebooks consisted of ferías (fairs) around the city. Throughout my explorations of these never-ending fairs, I have found that there are two types. Type 1 consists of tourist fairs. They are jam-packed with rows of mate gourds and other Argentine paraphernalia (eg: shot glasses and key chains), frantic vendors trying to convince you that their posters are the best, and that their empanadas are the most delicious. While walking through these fairs, Spanish is rarely heard, and an abundance of other languages are constantly flying by. However overwhelming these fairs can be, I enjoy pushing through the crowds and admiring (and buying) all that is for sale. Type 2, however, are much less touristy. These fairs seems to exist more for the locals, and look more like the whole neighborhood decided to host a conjoined garage sale. Every weekend. You can find anything from old books to boots to children’s clothing to jewelry to old fashioned telephones to collectable coins to old furnitures. I always find these to be slightly humorous, but nonetheless worthwhile.
Another aspect of these fairs (specifically in Type 2) that I have found to be quite charming are the smatterings of book stands located at random spots around the city. These stands sell everything from old classics to textbooks to self help books to coloring books. I always feel compelled to purchase a Spanish translation of a Stephen King book before I convince myself that it would be completely unnecessary (considering I’ve never actually read a Stephen King book in English).
2. Parrilla Tradicional
Argentina is known for its meat. Everytime that I mention that I am here, I am asked if I am eating steak on a regular basis. While I have not made it a habit to have meat all the time, nor do I consider myself a learned connoisseur of the cuisine, I can definitely confirm the rumors of the high quality of meat (and I now understand why Argentines refuse to eat meat unless they prepare it themselves.) In my experiences, there are two ways to eat meat in a restaurant. One way is to go to any relatively nice restaurant, which typically caters to tourists and everyone can order their individual plate. Another way is to go to a place with the world parilla (barbeque) posted out front. One can usually expect an empanada, followed by a small grill being brought to the table stocked with a variety of different types of meat. Though at times you cannot be completely sure as to which type of meat you are consuming, everything is generally pretty delicious.
3. Cafe con leche y tres medialunas
Cafe con leche (coffee with milk) and tres medialunas (three mini-croissants) are a very typical Argentine breakfast. The medialunas are much sweeter than your normal croissants, and incredibly delicious. Every cafe and coffee shop advertises their special deal for the duo, and it is quite common to see a spread of people enjoying the combo while reading their newspapers. It is also very commonplace to see the same occurrence at around 5 pm, to make up for their ridiculous late dining hour (see #7).
4. Empanadas
Empanadas are a given for this country. They’re everywhere. At around noon, the promotions advertising for cafe con leche y tres medialunas change to promoting two empanadas of your choice, accompanied by either a soda or a beer. Typical empanada fillings consist of meat, chicken, ham and cheese, or vegetables; but on occasion you can find caprese, napolitan, or other creative mixings inside them. At around one most schools break for lunch, and I always find hordes of teenagers wandering the streets, or sitting in front of various stores eating the aforementioned empanadas.
5. Take a Salsa Class
A visit to a Latin American country is not complete without some form of a exposure to Latin Dance. Though Argentina is known for its Tango (see #6), there are also a fair amount of Salsa dancers, and Salseras, or bars established specifically for Salsa. I, along with two of my roommates (one of whom dances Salsa at home and had been itching to do so here for the past couple of months), decided to go to one of these Salseras to attend a Salsa class. Though the class was said to be a beginner’s class, I can assure you that my roommate and I were the two people in the room who had never done it before. I can also assure you that I will never win any awards for my Salsa Dancing abilities. I did, however, enjoy the experience and I am kind of hoping Oberlin will decide to offer a Salsa class in the coming years.
6. Go to a Milonga
Argentina is famous for its tango. And to have an authentic, Argentine Tango experience, a Milonga is the place to go. First of all, I would like to point out that Tango is an extremely important aspect of the culture. The way that I grew up listening to the Beatles, and subsequently knowing every word to every song, coincides with the way in which Argentines grow up knowing every word to every Tango song. A Milonga (at least the one that I visited) has a small kitchen and bar, and lots of small tables surrounding a dance floor. It is populated by a diverse group of people--ranging from retired married couples to young tango enthusiasts. No matter the age, everyone was just as actively enjoying the familiar music. Though I felt a bit out of place, I definitely enjoyed the experience.
7. Eat dinner at 11pm (or later).
For some reason, people in Argentina never eat dinner before 9:30, but even more frequently not before 11. This is one practice that most westerners have a very difficult time adjusting to. Argentines frequently make fun of the fact that we eat ridiculously early. I normally eat around 8:30 because Susana, the woman with whom I live, thinks that I, as a North American, am unable to eat later than that. So even though I have not made it a habit to have dinner past 11 pm, I have done it a couple of times. It still surprises me when I walk past a restaurant at midnight and it’s packed with the nightly dinner rush.
8. Stay out until 6 am
With the tendency to have dinner later, comes the tendency to stay out later in general. Argentines like to stay out late (or early, depending on how you look at it). People will have dinner, then spend some time at a bar, and then go to a club. In fact, most clubs don’t even open until at least 1 am. While I have stayed out until the sun was almost out once or twice, it is definitely not something I plan to bring back to the states (don’t worry, mom and dad). In addition to the party-late mindset, Argentine children do not have what we would consider a normal bed time. I’ve seen kids in ice cream shops with their parents at one in the morning; I’ve witnessed kids playing in the park located in a plaza known for its nightlife surrounded by drunken bar patrons. It begs the question of whether or not babysitters exist in this country--but it once again shows the many cultural differences that exist.
9. Put Dulce de Leche on everything.
Dulce de leche is in everything in Argentina. There’s dulce de leche ice cream; pancakes are served with it heaped on top; it is served with toast (alongside various types of jam); it’s a staple ingredient of an ice cream sundae; at least a half of an aisle in every grocery store is dedicated to the various available brands; it is the filling for many pastries; and it is found in most alfajores (see #10). Now, don’t get me wrong, I think dulce de leche is as delicious as the next person, but there has to be a limit. The expression “I put ketchup on my ketchup” perfectly describes this country's addiction to the delicious spread. Not only is it put on everything, but people are often quite generous regarding the amount used. I don’t think you walk more than a couple of blocks without seeing an ad for some line of it, nor can you watch television without seeing an ad depicting the utter delight of some adorable Argentine child after his mom serves him his toast with mountains of dulce de leche on top. Nonetheless, dulce de leche is definitely one aspect of this country that I will miss.
10. Try as many brands of alfajores as possible.
Considering more than half of this post has revolved around food, I think by now (if you’re still reading this), you have probably picked up on how delicious it all tends to be. My favorite Argentine food, by far, are alfajores, which seem to be the national dessert of choice. Typically, they are made with two pieces of dough sandwiching a layer of dulce de leche, and then dipped in chocolate. My mom likens them to high class ding dongs. Though I prefer the classic alfajor, you can find them made with rice cakes, or with jam instead of dulce de leche, or made entirely with chocolate, or with no chocolate at all. In addition to the variety in flavors, there are an unimaginable amount of alfajor brands. For example, I’ve seen Oreo brand alfajores, Nestle has one, and every chocolate company in Argentina has their own type (if not many types) of alfajores. You can find them in all of the kiosks that line the streets of the city, you can get them at most coffee shops, and almost all bakeries (which are as common as Starbuck’s is in the states) make their own gourmet version of an alfajor. And for those of you who are slightly intrigued by my not-so-eloquent description of the delicacy, I will be bringing home a box so that as many people as possible can bear witness to the amazingness that is an alfajor.
11. Drink Yerba Mate
Yerba Mate, in my opinion, should replace the image of the sun placed in the center of the Argentine flag. It’s everywhere. According to Wikipedia (which is clearly a very reliable source of information), “Mate is present in 95% of households and 79% of the population drinks the beverage.” Though you can find mate cocido (toasted mate) in tea bags, it is generally served loosely. One will put the mate leaves in a traditional mate gourd (see picture below). Some will add sugar, or some other form of sweetener, and others will drink it straight. Then, hot water (but not boiling, as to not burn the tea) is poured in. One drinks the mate through a special straw that has a special filter at one end of it. These straws are typically made out of some form of metal, and often have some form of decoration. When one person finishes the water, the gourd is passed to the next person. In my opinion, mate tastes like green tea, but with a slightly stronger flavor. Not a day has passed where I haven’t seen someone on the street with a thermos tucked under their arm and a mate gourd in their hand.
Though I can hardly believe my time in Argentina, and my gap year as a whole, is coming to an end, I am definitely looking forward to spending some time at home. The past year has been absolutely incredible. I have had the opportunity to immerse myself in foreign cultures, I have learned to be significantly more independent, and I have had experiences that I wouldn’t trade for anything. And I can speak Spanish (with a ton of mistakes).
PS: Tell everyone you know to take a gap year. It’s a good decision, I promise.
